The Weekend Gourmet » Island Lifestyle

Mainland-Style Ahi Poke, Tuna Tartare

admin — Thu, 18 Mar 2010 22:27:50 +0000

No single dish says “Hawaii” to me more than Ahi Poke. It brings back memories of when I first lived in the Hawaiian islands, on Maui, during my windsurfing-bookwriting-sabbatical-from-San-Francisco-lawyer-life days. My roommate, Rick, and I used to get ”Poke” (make sure you say Po-Kay, not Po-Key, I think that means something else!) from the market every time we went shopping. It was spicy and rich, and crunchy from the green onions, all at the same time. We were both on tight budgets, so it was a luxury item we looked forward to. Even so, the small container we picked up never lasted more than a few hours.

Ahi Poke means simply “Ahi, Sliced.” Ahi Poke originated with Hawaii’s fishermen and was nothing more than a blend sliced fresh raw ahi tuna, limu (seaweed) and Hawaiian salt. With the Japanese influence in the islands, the recipe has evolved to often include Shoyu (soy sauce) and/or wasabi.

Local-style Ahi Poke is something you’ll find here on the islands at almost any gathering or special occasion. But it’s not just for parties. It’s an every day kind of thing. Many grocery stores even have a special deli section that features just Ahi Poke, in several different preparations.

On the mainland, people know Ahi Poke as Tuna Tartare. Tuna Tartare (and Ahi Poke) come in more variations that you can name. One of my favorite dishes for years, at Michael Mina’s renowned San Francisco restaurant, Aqua, was the Tuna Tartare. I really don’t think I have ever had a better version than that original recipe.

So luckily for me, the other day, our neighbor, Michael, brought over some fresh Ahi that he had just caught. Perfect opportunity to make my own version of Ahi Poke. This recipe is loosely based on the Tuna Tartare that was once served at Aqua. I’ve tried to remember what I think was in it, but it has been about 10 years and my memory fails me!

Mainland-Style Ahi Poke (aka Tuna Tartare)

1 Pound Fresh, Sashimi Grade Ahi
1 1/2 TBS Sesame Oil
1 Tsp Kosher Salt
1 Tsp Fresh Grated Ginger (or 1/4 Tsp of Ground Powdered Ginger)
1 Tsp Red Chili Powder
1/4 Tsp Allspice
1/4 Tsp Cinnamon
1 Red Anjou Pear (Peeled, cored)
4 TBSP toasted Pine Nuts
Optional: 1 Raw Egg Yolk (if not using egg yolk, increase sesame oil by 1/2 TBSP)

Toast the pine nuts on foil, on a baking sheet, in the oven at 450 degrees, for about 10 minutes. Be careful not to burn. Remove from oven and from the baking sheet.

Mix together, in medium glass bowl, oil, egg yolk, salt and spices. Dice the Ahi into small cubes, 1/4 to 1/3 inch is best. Use a very sharp knife or you will not have a lot of success dicing the tuna into small, uniform pieces.

Dice the pear into 1/4 inch cubes. Make sure you are using a relatively firm and not an over-ripe pear.

Toss the ahi into the bowl with the oil mixture, stir to cover tuna with the oil and spices. Add the grated fresh ginger, diced pears, and pine nuts. Stir gently to combine all ingredients.

Serve Mainland-Style Ahi Poke immediately on plain crackers, Lavosh, or Toast Points (toasted bread, crusts cut off, cut into 4 triangles).

Serves 4.

Tsunami Tri-Tip with Tangy Garlic Bread

admin — Sun, 28 Feb 2010 18:29:08 +0000

Recently, some friends invited us over for a casual supper. We were greeted by the warm ambiance of Karl & Gina’s tropical home, near Kailua Beach. We started with light pupus, including cheese and fruit, as well as having some of my favorite Smoked Ahi Spread.

Karl and Gina proceeded to serve up a delicious spread which included Grilled Tri-Trip, Garlic Bread and a crisp green salad. Simple, fresh and tasty. And the champagne wasn’t bad either! Needless to say, it was a very enjoyable evening, with great food, old friends and fun conversation. My husband and I immediately decided that this was a meal we would replicate at home. And the opportunity arose soon enough.

Yesterday, the Hawaiian islands were expecting a tsunami. You may have heard about it on the news – one of the reprecussions of the tragic, recent 8.8 earthquake in Chile. Both my husband (who was busy working at his job with the Marines and Homeland Defense) and I had an extremely stressful day, as we evacuated our home in Kailua and prepared for the worst.

Fortunately, the tsunami never arrived and the Hawaiian islands were spared. We were all incredibly relieved and decided to celebrate with a great meal on the grill. And so the Tsunami Tri-Tip evolved.

Tsunami Tri-Tip is quick, easy and tasty. The Harissa and Montreal Seasoning give it a little spice. Karl still gets credit, though I am not sure what he uses for his rub. This is how we make it:

Tsunami Tri-Tip

1- Approx. 1.5 pound Trip Trip Roast

1/4 Cup Montreal Seasoning

Harissa Paste (pick up at any gourmet food store and many grocery stores)

Rub Harissa paste all over meat, use as much a you need to very lightly cover all the meat, about 1 oz. If you like more spice, add a little more. Harissa contains chili, and spices like coriander and caraway, among other ingredients, so use with care.

Spread Montreal Seasoning on a plate and dip the meat in the seasoning, so that it sticks to the meat. This can be done a few hours to a day in advance. If you do this in advance, wrap the meat in plastic wrap after the rub is applied and refrigerate.

Preheat grill on high. When the grill reaches about 400 degrees put the meat on, and turn down heat to Medium. Close grill lid. Cook to desired doneness, approx. 7 minutes on one side. Flip and cook 7 minutes in the other side.

Slice Tsunami Tri-Tip and serve pupu style (in bite-sized medallions).

Tangy Garlic Bread

1 Large, Soft, French loaf
1 Stick, Salted Butter
1/2 cup Shaved Parmesan Cheese
6 Cloves Fresh Garlic,
(smashed well and diced or sent through a garlic press)

Turn oven on Low Broil. If your oven does not have this setting, make sure your oven rack is pretty far away from the broiler flame and watch the bread closely while cooking, because it will very quickly burn.

Mix butter and garlic together. Cut loaf in half, lengthwise, separating top and bottom. Put back together and cut loaf again, across the top, into 2 or 3 pieces, depending upon how long the bread is. You want it to fit on the baking sheet. Spread butter mixture on bread. Sprinkle top with shaved Parmesan Cheese.

Toast in oven until slightly browned at edges and butter and cheese are melted.

Serve Tsunami Tri-Tip with Tangy Garlic Bread, and a crisp green salad. Feel free to make sandwiches with the meat and bread. Enjoy!!

Herbed Garlic-Horseradish Crusted Prime Rib

admin — Sat, 26 Dec 2009 07:06:16 +0000

This year we spent Christmas on Oahu. Just had a small gathering with a few of our friends and neighbors. We missed our extended family, but it was still one of the best Christmas seasons ever. People in Hawaii are suprisingly festive, despite a lack of cold weather, and there are many events for the entire month. Most, if not all, of the holiday traditions on the mainland are followed here in Hawaii. Especially when it comes to food.

Nothing says Christmas Dinner more, to me, than Prime Rib. I have nothing against turkey or ham, but these are my favorites only for Thanksgiving. Something a little more special is perfect for Christmas. Delicious, savory, satisfying … just as good for left overs. Prime Rib on Christmas has become a tradition in our home and one well worth continuing. When you taste this recipe, I think you will agree!

Christmas Dinner – Island Style!!

Herbed Garlic-Horseradish Crusted Prime Rib

1 – 5 lb boneless standing rib roast (cooking instructions are the same for a bone-in roast)
6 Medium Bunches of Fresh Herbs: rosemary, thyme, sage, tarragon
2 TBSP Chopped Rosemary
2 heads Baked Garlic
Sea Salt
Pepper
1 4 oz Jar prepared Horseradish
1 Stick Butter
2 Boxes Beef Broth

Make Crust for Meat:
Cut top 1/2 inch off of two garlic heads, drizzle with olive oil and then bake 2 heads Garlic at 350 degrees for about 40-45 minutes, until soft. Can be done in advance. Let cool. Squeeze the insides of each clove of baked garlic into food processor bowl. You should have around 30-40 cloves of garlic. Cream garlic together with prepared horseradish and 2 TBSP fresh chopped rosemary.

Sear Meat:
Before cooking, pat roast completely dry. This well help the meat sear. Liberally salt and pepper all sides of the roast. Heat 2 tbs olive oil on med-high heat in heavy stainless steel or cast iron skillet. Place roast in heavy pan and sear each side (all sides) for about minutes each, until browned. Remove meat. Deglaze pan with 1/2 cup red wine. Remove liquid and bits and reserve for later.

Roast Meat:
Pre-heat oven to 450 degrees. Get out large roaster pan with rack. Spread garlic-horseradish mixture thickly on all sides of the seared meat with a spatula. Press and spread three bunches of herbs into bottom crust of roast. Lay roast on roasting rack. Press remaining three bunches of herbs into top and sides of roast. Place several pats of butter on top of herbs on roast. Pour in 1 box of beef stock and the reserved liquid from deglazing. This can all be done in advance, if desired, and the meat refrigerated overnight, but you MUST let roast come to room temperature prior to cooking (this may take up to 2 hours).

Make sure roast is at room temperature. Place roast in the oven. After 15 minutes, turn heat down to 325 degrees. Continue to cook. Cooking time will depend on exact weight of roast and doneness desired. You will need a meat thermometer to test. I recommend checking the internal temperature after 1 hour, no matter the size of the roast, just to check progress. Also, every 1/2 hour, check beef broth at bottom of pan to ensure that it has not dried up or burned. Continue to add more broth or water, if necessary, so that you have about an inch of liquid at all times.

When the roast reaches the desired doneness (temperature), remove from the oven. After you take the meat out, cover loosely with foil and let rest for 25-30 minutes, during which the meat will continue to cook a bit more.

For Rare meat, the thermometer should read 120-125 degrees, when inserted into the center at the thickest part of the roast, not touching any bone or fat. Medium-rare is 130-135 degrees. Medium, 140-145 degrees. Medium-Well, 150-155 degrees, Well-done, 160 degrees or more.

As an example, a 5 pound roast will take about 1 hr to 1 1/4 hrs total in the oven for Rare. A 10 pound roast will take about 2 to 2 1/4 hrs for Rare. Cooking times may vary greatly, so please use a thermometer. You do not want to ruin this gorgeous and expensive cut of meat.

Making the Jus:
Remove all the pan drippings from the roasting pan, combine with any juices which have settled from the resting roast. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer, slightly thickening the liquid. Salt and pepper to taste. Serve with and drizzle over meat.

Heaven on Earth Scalloped Potatoes (with Mushrooms)

admin — Tue, 15 Dec 2009 14:27:02 +0000

My friend Karla decided to host a Christmas party at her waterfront home in Hawaii Kai. Fortunately for us, the party coincided with the date of the Hawaii Kai Boat Parade of Lights. How cool to watch the parade from the ideal location on her lanai, while enjoying a lovely dinner party and Christmas celebration!

The menu for the evening was split between the guests and included:

Filet Mignon
Scalloped Potatoes
Brussels Sprouts
Glazed Carrots
Popovers
and Assorted Pupus

I was assigned to the Scalloped Potatoes, which was great because I love this dish had some good ideas based on Karla’s suggestion to get fancy and add mushrooms to the dish. This is how super rich and cheesy Heaven-on-Earth Scalloped Potatoes evolved. A classic dish, it also gets earthiness from the addition of the mushrooms. This is a make-again dish the whole family will enjoy.

Heaven on Earth Scalloped Potatoes

4 pounds Peeled Russet Potatoes
1 TBSP extra-virgin olive oil
2 Tsp Salt for Potatoes
1 Tsp Salt for Mushrooms
2 Tsp White pepper for Potatoes
1/2 Tsp Black Pepper for Mushrooms
4-6 medium garlic cloves, sent through garlic press
1/2 TBS Garlic Powder
1 Tsp Ground Nutmeg
1 1/2 cups heavy whipping cream
1 1/4 cup grated or shaved Parmesan cheese
1 8 oz package of Creme Fraiche
1/2 of an 8 oz package of Gorgonzola Crumbles (4 oz)
3 TBS fresh thyme leaves (or 1 TBSP dried thyme)
1/2 Pound Crimini (Baby Portabellos) Mushrooms

Preheat oven to 375°F. Slice potatoes about 1/8 inch thick with a mandoline slicer or sharp knife. Potatoes need to be evenly sliced or they will not cook evenly.

Toss potatoes on a baking sheet with 2 Tsp salt and white pepper, fresh garlic and thyme to lightly and evenly coat. Pour heavy cream into a 2 cup glass measuring cup and stir in garlic powder and nutmeg, mixing well. Separate potatoes into four approximately even piles. Remove 1/4 of the potatoes from baking sheet and arrange evenly in a 2 1/2 quart glass or ceramic baking dish. Pour 1/4 cup of the cream mixture over the potatoes.

Sprinkle with 1/4 cup Parmesan cheese. Add 1/2 of the creme fraiche, distributing evenly in small dollop and 1/2 of the blue cheese crumbles (2 oz). These cheeses, along with the creme fraiche, will add a nice tang to the dish without being too strong. If you really like gorgonzola cheese, feel free to double the amount of cheese in this recipes to 8 oz. total. This works well, too.

Repeat the layering with another 1/4 of potatoes, 1/4 cup heavy cream mixture, and 1/4 cup Parmesan cheese, 2 more times. Add the final 1/2 of creme fraiche and 1/2 (2 oz.) of blue cheese crumbles. Add last 1/4 potatoes, drizzle with another 1/4 cup of the cream mixture.

Slice and toss mushrooms in medium bowl with 1 TBS of olive oil and 1 Tsp salt and 1 Tsp black pepper.
Arrange mushroom slices on top of potatoes around edge of dish. Cover top of mushrooms with remaining 1/2 cup Parmesan cheese and remaining 1/2 cup of the heavy cream. If you don’t have crimini mushrooms, you may substitute with button mushrooms or mushrooms may be omitted, as well.

Bake uncovered until potatoes are cooked through, about 1 hour and 15 minutes. (If potatoes have been refigerated prior to cooking, either allow to come to room temperature prior to baking or you will need to bake longer.)

Remove from oven and let stand 15-20 minutes, serving from the dish. Or if you choose to make this dish in advance, let potatoes cool completely and refrigerate. When ready to serve cut into pieces, place on baking sheet and cover with foil. Preheat oven to 375 degrees and bake for about 15-20 minutes until fully heated.

Aloun Farm & Pumpkin Patch For Holiday Fun

admin — Wed, 28 Oct 2009 01:04:39 +0000

This fall, don’t forget to make a stop by Aloun Farms. Aloun Farms is famous, on Oahu, for its Halloween Pumpkin Patch and tours for school children. But have you thought about visiting year around for fresh produce?

Aloun Farms is located on 18 acres in the Ewa and Kunia areas of Oahu and employs 180 people. It’s mission inlcudes the goal of reducing Hawaii’s dependency on mainland produce, by providing competitively priced local products to the people of Hawaii, using sustainable practices and providing education and outreach to the community.

Products grown include pumpkins, of course, and vegetables such as bok choy, zucchini, radishes, onions, eggplant, string beans, cabbage, broccoli, corn, and cucumber. Fruits, such as cantaloupe, honeydew, watermelon and apple bananas and fresh herbs are also available.

Bring your kids for the Pumpkin Patch and have a great time picking out your Halloween pumpkins! Open Oct. 31, 9am-5pm. Admission is Free, Pumpkins priced on weight. Parking is $3.00. Also, pick-your-own sweet corn – 5 gallon bucket $15, 4 gallon bucket $12.

91-1440 Farrington Hwy
Kapolei, HI 96707
808-677-9516
(Take exit 6A)
http://www.alounfarms.com/

A’Table Gourmet Cooking – Private Chef Classes & Dinner Parties

admin — Sat, 03 Oct 2009 21:03:02 +0000

My girlfriend, Kasandra, got an amazing gift for her birthday this year: a private in-home gourmet cooking class and meal. I was fortunate enough to be invited to share in the food and fun. The class was conducted by private chef, Aline Steiner of a’ table Hawaii, on Oahu.

Not to be confused with a caterer, Aline comes to your home with uncooked ingredients and all the necessary cooking gear, to prepare a pre-selected meal for 1-25 people to be served in your own home. Using your kitchen, she can prepare the entire meal, without assistance from the host/hostess, for a dinner party or other special evening. Or, as done for us, she prepares an entire meal as a cooking class, for up to about 6 people, depending upon how many people the kitchen will comfortably accomodate.

The a’table process started with a pre-event meeting between Kasandra and Aline. Kasandra chose the specific dishes that we prepared from a few suggested menus Aline had provided. The evening of the party, we showed up with nothing but our appetitites and Aline had done all the shopping.

The Menu:

Sauteed Mushrooms with Aoli on Crostini

Scallops Tequila Ceviche in Cucumber Cups

Seared Lamb Chops with Rosemary Balsamic Reduction Sauce

Roasted Tomatoes w/ Saffron & Thyme

Ricotta Gnocchi

We started with the Truffles, made from chocolate ganache and dipped in walnuts, coconut or seseame seeds and finished with the Lamb. In between, we sampled the appetizers and made all of the other delicious dishes, including homemade gnocchi, without using any potato! This was my favorite – total comfort food. Recipe is below.

In the end, we enjoyed a delicious feast and I also learned a few things I didn’t know. I would highly recommend Aline to anyone who would like to learn to prepare some new dishes, in a fun group setting, or for a dinner party, where you would like to really be able to relax and enjoy your guests.

a’table Hawaii 808-221-3784
http://www.atablehawaii.com/

Aline’s Recipe for Ricotta Gnocchi
Ingredients:
1 lb Whole Milk Ricotta
2 egg Yolks (M-L)
1/4 to 1/2 tsp Fine Sea Salt
1/2 Cup Parmesan Cheese
1 cup All-purpose Flour, plus extra for dusting the dough/board

Make sure your work surface and hands are very clean. Drain the ricotta over a colander to rid of any excess liquid. Have a large baking sheet, lined with parchment paper ready.

Into a large bowl, add the ricotta cheese, egg yolks, salt and freshly grated parmesan cheese. Mix well. Now add the flour and stir in briefly, just until combined – the dough will be quite sticky. Form a loaf and cut into 4 pieces and wrap 3 of them with plastic wrap.

Generously dust your work surface and hands with flour. Take the unwrapped piece of dough and roll it back and forth on the work surface, while applying gentle downward pressure. Form a long narrow cylinder of dough, about 18-20 inches in length, and about as thick as your index finger. Lightly dust with flour. Cut the cylinder into about 1 inch pieces and arrange in single layer on the baking sheet. Cover baking sheet with plastic wrap and set aside. Repeat these steps with the remaining 3 pieces of dough, placing the cut pieces on the same baking sheet, but making sure that all pieces are in a single layer and that none are touching, so that they won’t stick to each other. You can freeze the gnocchi like this, so that you can bag them and store in the freezer.

To cook, bring a large pot of water to a boil, add a generous pinch of salt, and reduce heat untilt he water bubbles lightly. Add the gnocchi and stir once, so they don’t stick to the bottom of the pot – and then let cook until they start floating to the top. Depending upon the size of the gnocchi, this may take 2-4 minutes. Remove from water with a slotted spoon and drain in a colander. Spread out in single layer on a baking sheet. You can reheat the gnocchi gently in a sauce and serve, or pan fry in a little olive oil and/or butter to lightly brown them before tossing with cheese or adding to a sauce. Enjoy!

Kitchen Rejuvenation in Progress

admin — Thu, 28 May 2009 23:47:43 +0000

Being any kind of Gourmet, “Weekend” or otherwise, can be difficult when you don’t have a great kitchen to cook in. In my opinion, you need not have a Wolf stove, refrigerated drawers or beautiful aesthetics, but at least you need the basic functionality. Unfortunately, my kitchen has had next to none of that since we moved to our new house last year!

I have cabinets where the openings are not wide enough to insert my cookware. My refrigerator does not fit in its cabinet sticks out into the entry from the family room. I don’t have enough counter space and my dishwasher is in a very inconvenient location. There is no kitchen seating and the “bar counter” has no ledge. I even have a top-load washer and dryer in my kitchen, which is competing for both my time and space.

All that is about the change. My husband and I are now embarking on a journey into home remodeling. I am a little nervous because we don’t really have the experience, but he assures me that it will all work out.

We have one other problem too — lack of serious funds to finance the remodel. We can spend on a few things, but we are going to have to make due with the existing cabinets. Luckily, we already have new or newer appliances, which include a gas stovetop. It is not ALL that bad. We are going to get a new sink, flooring and rely mainly on paint and reorganization for the rest.

The major changes are mainly going to be low cost ones that will improve the usabilty of the space:

(1) Open up and remove the single wall (tongue and groove) between the kitchen and family room
(2) Rearrange the cabinets/island to include seating, as well as work space
(3) Add a pot rack for more storage
(4) Remove doors and center stiles from several cabinets to create open shelving, so I can reach and store my cookware. Add extra shelves to some cabinets.
(5) Move dishwasher and refrigerator to create better use of space. Remove clothes washer and dryer from the kitchen, and reinstall into carport area.
(6) The last step in the process will be installation of some new lighting. This is bound to be a more pricey piece, between the rewiring and the fixtures themselved — but still very necessary. Our lighting is terrible right now! We will plan it now, but complete it later.

I apologize in advance for the likelihood of fewer than normal posts during this process. Stay tuned for progress… ~ Aloha

Organic Farming at Olomana Gardens

admin — Wed, 25 Feb 2009 20:16:56 +0000

Last Saturday afternoon we went in search of island-fresh eggs. I was inspired by Ann Marie’s Cheese Slave Blog singing the praises of Pastured Eggs. The closest source I could find for fresh eggs was a place in nearby Waimanalo, Olomana Gardens. It was too much of a coincidence that this farm had been recommended to me twice in one month, for two very different reasons, so I had to make a visit.

After taking a long windey road toward the Ko’olaus we turned left at the Red Tractor to our destination. Passing a lot of junky looking apparatus and nearing some buildings, we finally parked. This is a place to wear lots of clothes, or bug repellant, if you use that sort of thing. Mosquitos were everywhere!

Olomana Gardens is owned by Glenn Martinez, a friendly and eclectic sort of fellow, who seems to be as fond of his toys (motorcycles, boats, etc.) as he is of his farm and animals. He is a Member of the Hawaii Organic Farmers Association and, according to his website:

“Olomana Gardens is dedicated to serving the local community as an informal, old-style, Hawaiian, tropical garden that is a model for modern, sustainable agriculture. [They] have a diverse population of two horses, a hundred plus birds (chickens, ducks, turkeys, geese), goats, a rabbit, and thousands upon thousands of composting worms which turn organic waste & manures into natural fertilizer. [They] have natural, spring-fed koi and aquaculture ponds which are also home to bull frogs and turtles. [They] grow organic fruit and vegetables and offer for sale natural chicken and duck eggs, selected exotic chicken pets, composting and tiller worms, worm compost, selected organic plants and produce, and organic pallet gardens for delivery (the all-in-one pallet gardens are perfect for budding farmers with limited space or those who want only organic produce). Agriculture workshops and school tours featuring our agricultural activities are a regular feature. ”

So we let the kids run around the gardens like wild maniacs for a while, while conversing with Glenn, and then picked up several dozen eggs at $6 a dozen. Not bad. He told us that they have fresh organic produce and it sells out completely, daily. I plan to head over there early in the morning next time. I am also particularly interested in the POGs or Pallet Organic Gardens. These are a raised bed mini-farm that they will deliver to your home for residential organic food production. Cool, so long as I could remember to keep it watered!

Olomana Gardens. 41-1140 Waikupanaha St., Waimanalo, HI 808-259-5223.

Kailua Eats: Kalapawai Cafe

admin — Thu, 05 Feb 2009 22:31:27 +0000

Other than the Mokulua Islands off of Lanikai Beach, there is probably no more prolific spot in Kailua than the Kalapawai Market. Located on South Kalaheo Avenue, and a short hop from Kailua Beach and Beach Park, the Kalapawai Market has been serving patrons since 1932. It’s owner, Don Dymond, has definitely done the market & deli concept right, making this convenience stop one frequented by both tourists and locals, for many years.

In 2007, Dymond opened his sister business, the Kalapawai Cafe. A deli and restuarant, the Kalapwai Cafe is located in the heart of Kailua Town, just off the main drag from the Pali Highway. In the former site of a used car lot, you will recognize the signature evergreen paint, red roof and white trim of the plantation-style building. The Kalapawai Cafe’s deli case is choc full of delicious looking, gourmet dishes, many of which would make even Ina Garten’s mouth water. Sandwiches and fresh pizzas are a speciality. They make espresso & coffee, and serve several breakfast items, made to order, such as bagels with lox or hummus, and breakfast burritos, with Andy’s Salsa.

After 5pm, the cafe starts its sit-down service, with a pretty darn good menu & wine list. The restaurant favors local produce and uses the freshest ingredients possible. I’ve eaten there several times now, and will continue to go back and try new things.

If appetizers are your thing, they have a few simple items like Bruschetta with toppings such as salmon and tomatoes, and pitas with spreads: Tuscan White Bean, Hummus, and Lemon-Artichoke Pesto ($9). Bacon-Wrapped Figs are also a yummy-sounding delight, which I have not yet sampled. Pair one or two of these treats with a flight of wine, 3 samples in tasting-size portions, $10, for a relaxing pau hana.

Last night, I had the special: Braised Beef Brisket in a Port Wine-Prune Reduction, served with Tuscan Broccoli and Polenta ($25). The sauce on the meat was very good, but I should have known better than to order an inferior cut of meat. This dish would have been perfection had it been made will the fall-apart goodness of shortribs, rather than slightly chewy brisket. In any event, the taste of the entire dish was superb. The broccoli was wonderfully sauteed in olive oil, with garlic, raisins and pine nuts. And the rich and creamy polenta was a great complement to brisket’s savory juices and sauce.

My companion had the Harris Ranch Pupu Steak, Over Greens and Hau’ula Aparagus, with Gorgonzola Dressing ($18). This was delicious, as well. The sliced steak over the bed of greens and grilled local asparagus, was cooked just right — though the meat, each time I’ve had this dish, has been slightly overseasoned with salt. Chopped tomatoes and a light, milky cheese dressing over top, made the overall combination of ingredients taste fresh and lovely.

My “favorite ever” dish there was a special: Grilled Opakapaka (Pink Snapper) Over a Spicy Sausage Stuffing, and Topped with Shrimp, with a Red Pepper and Pesto Drizzle. This was so different and so delicious. I haven’t seen them offer this again, but would order it in a flash.

Grilled Opakapaka Special

The ambiance of the cafe is a bit, well, rustic, which adds to the Cafe’s appeal. Just don’t sit right in front of the Deli case on a warm day, as it tends to emit a quite hot exhaust, making this seating uncomfortable at times. And the kitchen needs some better form of ventilation for its smoke, for sure. I hope some of these things will improve over time. Service is always friendly and adequate.

While the Kalapawai Cafe has a very casual setting, it has the most original and inspired food in Kailua. I can only hope that it will continue to provide fresh local ingredients and improve upon food quality. This is what will make this establishment stand out from places like the Formaggio Grill which, though it has a chic ambiance & good wine list, is both overly expensive & mediocre as to the food.

Kalapawai Cafe & Deli. 750 Kailua Road Kailua, HI 808-262-3354.

Meat Me In the Islands!

admin — Fri, 30 Jan 2009 17:35:54 +0000

Wasn’t I just saying that beef was enjoying a new renaissance? Particularly, here on the islands, where McDonald’s sausage patties & SPAM are considered by some locals to be gourmet delights. Well, that was an understatement. Apparently, all red fatty meats are in vogue – as evidenced by the hot, new & much blogged recipe, The Bacon Explosion. Watch out for heart attacks! Or maybe not, did you see recently, on Oprah, where David Zinczenko, the editor-in-chief of Men’s Health magazine and author of the book Eat This Not That for Kids said that regular bacon is a healthier alternative to turkey bacon? No? Well, I digress.

The Bacon Explosion is one of the most decadent things I have seen since the Turducken. (See below.) The Bacon Explosion is a recipe made famous by a team of Kansas City BBQ experts called Burnt Finger BBQ. An interesting-looking meatloaf-type dish, it consists of strips of bacon tightly woven into a square mat, which is seasoned and then rolled around a filling of ground Italian sausage and cooked bacon pieces. The 4 pound loaf is then transferred to a backyard smoker, and cooked for 2-3 hours, slathered in BBQ sauce. It is said to contain at least 5,000 calories and 500 grams of fat. This is a link to the original recipe.
http://www.bbqaddicts.com/blog/recipes/bacon-explosion/

I don’t think we have yet seen the full height of popularity possible in the islands for The Bacon Explosion dish. Once this catches on, I think it will remain as a local favorite.

The Turducken uses the same concept as The Bacon Explosion, but is made with fowl. Made popular in the 1980’s, “Turduckens” as they are called in the US, are seen most often in the Deep South and are usually cooked at Thanksgiving.

To make a Turducken, you start with a small deboned chicken and stuff it inside a deboned duck, which is then stuffed inside a partially de-boned turkey. TUR-DUCK-EN. Pretty clever. The inside of the chicken and any other remaining cavities can then be stuffed with a breadcrumb, vegetable or sausage stuffing. Turduckens have been commercially produced since 1985, by a specialty meats company in Louisiana.
Though relatively new in the US, “multi-bird” roasts have been around for a while. In fact, one royal feast in early 19th century France is said to have served a multi-bird roast (called a Rôti Sans Pareil, or “roast without equal”) including 17nested birds, with the tiniest one stuffed by a single olive! Oh my! And Bon Appétit!