Kailua Eats: Formaggio Grill & Wine Bar

admin — Tue, 29 Sep 2009 05:28:04 +0000

When I heard a wine bar and bistro was opening in Kailua, I was happy. No, I was ecstatic. After spending 15 years in the SF Bay Area, you get pretty used to fine dining and great wine lists. So Formaggio came on the scene and my reviews are mixed. Why?

First, it is expensive. Not French Laundry expensive – but still Overly Expensive. Second, the food sometimes just isn’t that great. Mostly, it is “pretty good,” but overall, it is hit or miss. I seems like it depends who is back in the kitchen that night. Not consistent, not fabulous. So therefore prices are high in relation to what you are getting.

There are a few standouts, however. The “Lobster Bisque to Live For”, for one. This is not the “best” lobster bisque I have had. That title belongs to Lindsay’s over in the Cape Cod area of Massachusetts. But this one is pretty good, if your timing is right. That means, if you get a batch that hasn’t been sitting in the pot for too long. When it has, the consistency and color changes, it is darker and thicker with more of a film. I have had it fresh and not so fresh, on different visits. Also, when Formaggio first opened, they were topping the bisque with huge chunks of lobster and an attractive claw piece. More lobster than you could eat in one bite. Lately, it is pretty lucky to get your bisque topped with a bite and at that, a pretty sad, chewed up looking piece. For around $12 a bowl, the lobster should at least be in good shape.

What else is good at Forgmaggios? The burgers and panini sandwiches – Lobster Panini $16.99, Kobe Burger Panini $15.99, Vegetable Panini $12.99 – Ouch! The truffled French Fries, at $7.99. This makes Formaggio a nice choice if you are lunching in Kailua and don’t mind spending the dough.

And Formaggio is also a GREAT place for Happy Hour. It serves pupu sized dishes, like Filet Mignon Tacos, Sauteed Calamari, or Shrimp on Toast for only $6. Along with these nicely priced dishes, they have daily wine and beer specials. Speaking of wine, they alway do have a very nice, large and constantly updated Wine List. So cheers also to Formaggio for that. It is and has been, since opening, a standout in Kailua and on the entire island of Oahu with regard to its wine list.

But do yourself a favor and don’t go for dinner. And if you do, don’t order the Beef Bourgionon. That is unless you are feeling like a can of Dinty Moore beef stew. It tastes pretty much the same. I am not even sure if they use wine in the sauce and the beef in the dish is fatty and sparse. At $21.99 for this dish, I think I would pass. Other entrees such as Prime Boneless ShortRibs ($34.99), Chicken Breast Milanaise ($19.99) and Barbecued Ribs ($29.99) are fine, but pricey.

Formaggio, please take cue from another Kailua restaurant that recently seems to have LOWERED its prices. Or take a look at a restaurant like Brasserie du Vin, in Honolulu, that is more of an authentic European Bistro – reasonable prices, delicious food. Isn’t that what you are trying to be?

Service here can be excellent. Most of the time it is excellent. But on occaision, you may get a little attitude from a server. After all, THIS restaurant is the trendiest place in Kailua, has a good location, good hours of operation and a great wine list. Live music on some evenings also makes it a fun place to stop by for a night on the town. And on a Kailua-scale, it is a place to see and be seen.

Kailua Eats: Kalapawai Cafe

admin — Thu, 05 Feb 2009 22:31:27 +0000

Other than the Mokulua Islands off of Lanikai Beach, there is probably no more prolific spot in Kailua than the Kalapawai Market. Located on South Kalaheo Avenue, and a short hop from Kailua Beach and Beach Park, the Kalapawai Market has been serving patrons since 1932. It’s owner, Don Dymond, has definitely done the market & deli concept right, making this convenience stop one frequented by both tourists and locals, for many years.

In 2007, Dymond opened his sister business, the Kalapawai Cafe. A deli and restuarant, the Kalapwai Cafe is located in the heart of Kailua Town, just off the main drag from the Pali Highway. In the former site of a used car lot, you will recognize the signature evergreen paint, red roof and white trim of the plantation-style building. The Kalapawai Cafe’s deli case is choc full of delicious looking, gourmet dishes, many of which would make even Ina Garten’s mouth water. Sandwiches and fresh pizzas are a speciality. They make espresso & coffee, and serve several breakfast items, made to order, such as bagels with lox or hummus, and breakfast burritos, with Andy’s Salsa.

After 5pm, the cafe starts its sit-down service, with a pretty darn good menu & wine list. The restaurant favors local produce and uses the freshest ingredients possible. I’ve eaten there several times now, and will continue to go back and try new things.

If appetizers are your thing, they have a few simple items like Bruschetta with toppings such as salmon and tomatoes, and pitas with spreads: Tuscan White Bean, Hummus, and Lemon-Artichoke Pesto ($9). Bacon-Wrapped Figs are also a yummy-sounding delight, which I have not yet sampled. Pair one or two of these treats with a flight of wine, 3 samples in tasting-size portions, $10, for a relaxing pau hana.

Last night, I had the special: Braised Beef Brisket in a Port Wine-Prune Reduction, served with Tuscan Broccoli and Polenta ($25). The sauce on the meat was very good, but I should have known better than to order an inferior cut of meat. This dish would have been perfection had it been made will the fall-apart goodness of shortribs, rather than slightly chewy brisket. In any event, the taste of the entire dish was superb. The broccoli was wonderfully sauteed in olive oil, with garlic, raisins and pine nuts. And the rich and creamy polenta was a great complement to brisket’s savory juices and sauce.

My companion had the Harris Ranch Pupu Steak, Over Greens and Hau’ula Aparagus, with Gorgonzola Dressing ($18). This was delicious, as well. The sliced steak over the bed of greens and grilled local asparagus, was cooked just right — though the meat, each time I’ve had this dish, has been slightly overseasoned with salt. Chopped tomatoes and a light, milky cheese dressing over top, made the overall combination of ingredients taste fresh and lovely.

My “favorite ever” dish there was a special: Grilled Opakapaka (Pink Snapper) Over a Spicy Sausage Stuffing, and Topped with Shrimp, with a Red Pepper and Pesto Drizzle. This was so different and so delicious. I haven’t seen them offer this again, but would order it in a flash.

Grilled Opakapaka Special

The ambiance of the cafe is a bit, well, rustic, which adds to the Cafe’s appeal. Just don’t sit right in front of the Deli case on a warm day, as it tends to emit a quite hot exhaust, making this seating uncomfortable at times. And the kitchen needs some better form of ventilation for its smoke, for sure. I hope some of these things will improve over time. Service is always friendly and adequate.

While the Kalapawai Cafe has a very casual setting, it has the most original and inspired food in Kailua. I can only hope that it will continue to provide fresh local ingredients and improve upon food quality. This is what will make this establishment stand out from places like the Formaggio Grill which, though it has a chic ambiance & good wine list, is both overly expensive & mediocre as to the food.

Kalapawai Cafe & Deli. 750 Kailua Road Kailua, HI 808-262-3354.

The Weekend Gourmet » kalapawai cafe

Kailua Eats: Formaggio Grill & Wine Bar

Kailua Eats: Kalapawai Cafe